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Merely foggy for the first 5 minutes, but then rain. A whole lot of rain. 22km+ of rain. And cold too. Well, nearly. Sun broke through around 3pm for final stroll into Triacastela.
For tomorrow Susie takes a day off (8 days without an off day seems like plenty..,) and Joan does not (you go girl!).
Joan after major climb
Big climb. Lots of rain. Gardens. Farmers. Mud. Views. El Refugio - hippy haven for escape from the rain, delicious crepes, and reconnecting with Danish gals from day one. O'Cebriero felt profoundly Gallic and like a hobbit village.
Las vacas on way from La Faba to O'Cebriero
O'Cebriero
O'Cebriero
O'Cebriero
Morning walk out of Cacabelos through rolling vineyards was lonely in a lovely way. Somehow almost no other pilgrims were on the path with us until Villafranca. At Villafranca, after our daily cafe con leche and tortilla, along with stork and castle viewings, we took solo paths to get to our afternoon's destination. Susie opted for a big ascent, some extra km/s (why?!) and mountain walk, and Joan took the main Camino road path. Susie saw tons of wildflowers, but no one until she woke the snoozing bar maid, at the crossroads called Pradela, who unlocked the bar to offer a soda. Meanwhile Joan did her own thing too; walking some of the time with a German gal we met back before Astorga. We met up in Trabadelo. Have beds at El Puente Peregrino and are excited for their yummy looking sangria and vegetarian menu.
Castillo, Villafranca
Peregrino statue, Villafranca
Joan took yellow path; Susie the green
Climbing out of Villafranca
Wildflowers on way to Pradela
Fuentes Nuevas
Another short-ish day of 16km to walk from Ponferrada to Cacabelos. Roses were the theme. Fun chats with other peregrinos. Rolling hills of grapes and cherries, plus some suburban towns. Now staying at a very sweet little Camino inn, Moncloa de San Lazaro. Gorgeous salads for lunch.
Storks walk too
After a very restful night we walked down into Ponferrada in the rain. At this point 16km feels pretty much like a breeze. The rainy descent wasn't bad at all. Stopped for cafe con leche in lovely village/suburb, Molinseca. Got excited to explore the castle in Ponferrada. It was HQ for the Knights of the Templar in the 12th century. Ponferrada is small, modern city and we've got a recommendation for a good dinner spot.
Morning rainbow leaving Acebo
Rainy day woman
On way to Molinaseca
Molinaseca
Joan taking pic in Molinaseca
Approaching Ponferrada
Arriving Ponferrada
Templar Castle
View looking out of castle
Castle selfie
Street art, Ponferrada
Hostal Nirvana
Yup. It was 3am when we started walking this morning. Was it the Druids that called Susie from her bed? Or delayed jet lag? Or the light outside that made it look like daylight? Maybe just tired of listening to the guy across the room snore... No matter what the cause, it was an oopsie. (Really sorry, mom...) We walked with head lamps on until we got the La Cruz de Ferro and then we got into our sleeping bags to wait for the sun to rise.
Given the early morning we needed a rest, and since it was beginning to rain we stopped after only 12km. (Hard down hill and Joan's knees did not like it.) Staying in Acebo at a new, large La Casa del Peregrinos. Big excitement is doing laundry today! Also taking naps and putting feet up. :-)
We'll get to Ponferrada tomorrow. Cacabelas on the 26th.
Oaklandish sticker was spotted
La Cruz de Ferro just before sunrise
Walking toward Acebo
Another big day of walking (26km) and some elevation gain too. Went from the city of Astorga to Foncebadon. Foncebadon is a tiny mountain village, with several crumbling stone buildings and a few albergues. Cool moutain air and lots of stretching for us.
Daily duo photo
Looking back
Las vacas
Caballo
Big day. Walked from Mazarife to Astorga. Windy, windy, windy for almost 20 miles. Crossed medieval bridges, met hilltop spirits, and got into walking meditation while jostled along the path.
Hilltop message
A Gaudi cathedral awaited us in Astorga
Walked out of Leon and into more countryside. Hot and dry with storms threatening. Made it to Albergue in Mazarife before the rain came. Tonight will be first night in a room with 30 beds. Looking forward to big communal dinner with salad, pumpkin soup, vegetable paella, and chocolate crepes.
Albergue San Padua
Joan and Peregrino
We send one of these to Hattie everyday
Yesterday we took train from Fromista to Leon. Splashed out with a delicious dinner and swanky hotel in the old quarter. Today spent exploring without backpacks! Joan is longing for a new shirt; she thinks she smells bad. Her favorite thing here is the pregnant virgin, but for Susie still all about the storks.
Leon Cathedral
Pregnant virgin
Cathedral San Isidoro
Old city wall
Manchego
And yes, there are storks in Leon too (view from our terrace)
Fun day off, but ready to walk on...
