Day 25: And that's a wrap...

Train station, Santiago de Compostela  

Train station, Santiago de Compostela  

When Joan meets a Peregrino, she always asks, "so why are you walking?" 

When Joan meets a Peregrino, she always asks, "so why are you walking?" 

3 Peregrinos over 70, saying fare thee well

3 Peregrinos over 70, saying fare thee well

That's it for the Camino de Santiago de Compostela for us. The last Peregrinos we met were 2 men, both over seventy. One 77 from Holland and one 76 from Canada. Needless to say the 3 seventy+ year olds together were super inspiring. 

After saying hello + good bye to them we took the train from Santiago to Madrid. We'll have a mini pilgrimage to see Guernica tomorrow and then fly home to start working for Hillary. #hillyes #werewithher

Walk on, friends!

490km

Day 24: Santiago

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Went to the Cathedral for the pilgrims' mass and had the great luck that they swung the botafumeiro. This is the world's largest (not fact checked) giant swinging incense holder. Presumably back in the day it was swung to fumigate the pilgrims and kill their lice and/or diseases. Now it is done rarely. Today's was swung in honor (donation?) of a priest from Guatemela.  It takes 8 big dudes in purple capes to swing it as the priests look on and crowd at mass oohs and ahhs a bit. Focused on the experience, but did snap a couple of pics for fun.

Catedral main altar

Catedral main altar

Botafumeiro

Botafumeiro

Botafumeiro  

Botafumeiro  

Saint James

Saint James

In a side chapel, Catedral  

In a side chapel, Catedral  

Top of the Catedral  

Top of the Catedral  

Confessionals available with priests waiting

Confessionals available with priests waiting

We were also fortunate to be staying in a delightful boutique hotel across from the market. Market pics below too. We do recommend Hotel de Cirxe da Cerca, if you are coming to Santiago. (Thanks to Joan for the shmancy hotel treat!)

seeds

seeds

pescado

pescado

dry goods

dry goods

cherries definitely in season

cherries definitely in season

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Day 23: We did it!

Joan, Camino de Santiago

Joan, Camino de Santiago

Yes. Indeed. We made it to Santiago. And, yes, indeed, love is the answer. (But you knew that already, right?)

On our way

On our way

Entering Praza Obradoiro, Catedral, Santiago

Entering Praza Obradoiro, Catedral, Santiago

And then Joan had us wait in a long line of peregrinos to get our "credencial" turned into a "compostela" - a medieval certificate of completion

And then Joan had us wait in a long line of peregrinos to get our "credencial" turned into a "compostela" - a medieval certificate of completion

Got the credencial stamped all along the Camino

Got the credencial stamped all along the Camino

One stamp per day is required; two per day last 100km

One stamp per day is required; two per day last 100km

And then the sun was out and Joan posed triumphant  

And then the sun was out and Joan posed triumphant  

Day 21-22: Oh the Places You'll Go

Friends, we are getting very close to Santiago. Since last post we've travelled from Melide to Arzua and from Arzua to O Pedrouzo. Joan a little sick and Susie got stung by nettles, but we are gonna make it!

We still stop to smell the roses  

We still stop to smell the roses  

Camino marker with Dr. Seuss defacement, Boente

Camino marker with Dr. Seuss defacement, Boente

Entering Arzua Joan ran into Jacques. He's the Peregrino we met back in Fromista who, like Joan, had two hip replacements. Fun to see someone from back in the first week of walking. 

Entering Arzua Joan ran into Jacques. He's the Peregrino we met back in Fromista who, like Joan, had two hip replacements. Fun to see someone from back in the first week of walking. 

Arzua is known for its queso - yum! 

Arzua is known for its queso - yum! 

Saturday card game, Arzua

Saturday card game, Arzua

Don Quijote Albergue, Arzua (Industrial sleeping quarters not most conducive for sleep so we got out at 5am.)

Don Quijote Albergue, Arzua (Industrial sleeping quarters not most conducive for sleep so we got out at 5am.)

O Pedrouzo

O Pedrouzo

O Pedrouzo  

O Pedrouzo  

Almost there

Almost there

Camino Country List

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One of the Hatster's Camino questions was: What countries will the people walking be from? Here's our list of where the people we've met so far are from:

Australia (a lot)

Austria

Belgium

Brazil (a lot)

Bulgaria

Canada

Columbia

Czech Republic

Denmark

England

France

Germany (a lot)

Greece

Hungary

Iceland (4 reported to be on Camino)

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Korea

Mexico

Netherlands

Palestine

Portugal

Scotland

Slovenia

South Africa

Spain

Sweden

Taiwan

United States

Uruguay  

 

Day 20: El Corazon y Pulpo

Folks at the Albergue were rustling by 5:45am so we were walking by 6:15 today. Not necessary as we were only walking 15km, but lovely in the morning fog. We accidentally walked separately, but found each other in Melide. Sweet church just outside of Melide for good meditation. Just in time too as it was swarmed moments after leaving by a pack of (adorable) school kids. Dinner later was "pulpo" at Pulperia Ezequiel. Joan was surprisingly into it!

Pulpo appears

Pulpo appears

Joan explores and gives 2 thumbs up

Joan explores and gives 2 thumbs up

Pulpo disappears

Pulpo disappears

Pulpo crew: Joan from Indiana, Heather from Minnesota, and Rick from Massachusetts 

Pulpo crew: Joan from Indiana, Heather from Minnesota, and Rick from Massachusetts 

Day 19: And the Farmer Ploughs On...

"The farmer ploughs on..." is a Dutch phrase we learned at dinner last night. Kind of like, "Keep calm and carry on." Seems just right for today. Nothing grueling or fancy, just walking and taking it all in.  We went from Ventas to Palas de Rei. Staying in a somewhat bustling Albergue run by an Italian man who promises a delightful pesto. Totally international crew for dinner, including a 76-year old Portuguese man who is singing as I type. Should be a fun one!

The farmer ploughs... 

The farmer ploughs... 

And we walk. 

And we walk. 

Foggy cow morning  

Foggy cow morning  

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Arriving Palas de Rei

Arriving Palas de Rei

Pulpo just out of pot

Pulpo just out of pot

Casina di Marcello

Casina di Marcello

We were excited to run into Pillar from Mexico in Palas de Rei. Had not seen her since Acebo...

We were excited to run into Pillar from Mexico in Palas de Rei. Had not seen her since Acebo...

Day 18: Another Camino Birthday

On road from Portomarin to Gonzar

On road from Portomarin to Gonzar

Hola from Ventas Del Naron. Not a very picturesque walk in general today (never said that before!), but a sweet, tiny village to spend the afternoon and night. Arrived by noon and will hang out looking at sheep and having a birthday beer. We have less than 80km to go. Instead of accelerating we are going to slow our pace for a few days, doing just 12-15km per day until June 5.

Birthday girl turns 48

Birthday girl turns 48

Mucho signage

Mucho signage

Casa Molar Albergue

Casa Molar Albergue

Susie's birthday dinner with T who biked from Holland

Susie's birthday dinner with T who biked from Holland

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Day 17: Onward to Portomarin

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Many small pleasures today and arrived Portomarin with tired shins, but without incident.  Lots of Peregrinos join the Camino at Sarria because it is just a bit more than 100km to Santiago and you have to do a verified 100km to get your "compostela" at the end. We had a gaggle of teen girls, a bag piper, folks we've seen since Leon, and lots of new faces from around the world, along with Galacian farm life.

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Joan misses her cat  

Joan misses her cat  

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What is this architectural item? They suddenly appeared today along the Camino, and we learned later that they are typical Galician grain holders.

What is this architectural item? They suddenly appeared today along the Camino, and we learned later that they are typical Galician grain holders.

Arriving Portomarin

Arriving Portomarin

Portomarin

Portomarin

Portomarin

Portomarin

Portomarin

Portomarin