Went to the Cathedral for the pilgrims' mass and had the great luck that they swung the botafumeiro. This is the world's largest (not fact checked) giant swinging incense holder. Presumably back in the day it was swung to fumigate the pilgrims and kill their lice and/or diseases. Now it is done rarely. Today's was swung in honor (donation?) of a priest from Guatemela. It takes 8 big dudes in purple capes to swing it as the priests look on and crowd at mass oohs and ahhs a bit. Focused on the experience, but did snap a couple of pics for fun.
We were also fortunate to be staying in a delightful boutique hotel across from the market. Market pics below too. We do recommend Hotel de Cirxe da Cerca, if you are coming to Santiago. (Thanks to Joan for the shmancy hotel treat!)